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When the winter months are over it is time to take the bike out of hibernation. The boat can be on the shore or in the water, but if we want to sail again we have to check a few more points.
I have made a Check list at the bottom of this piece that you can tick off.

Tips if the boat is on the shore.

If your boat is on the shore, there are more points to check than if it is in the water. You can think of servicing the winches. This is easier on the bank than in the water, if a part unexpectedly falls overboard you will not lose it permanently.
If you have a sail drive, check the rubber flap to make sure it is not cracked or is still secure. Also check the valves, especially if they are ball valves, as they still tend to freeze with frost. Most valves are made of brass and will de-zinc over time, this means that they become more brittle and can crack, replace if in doubt.
Check the depth and speedometer if you have one. Checking for defects, the paddle turns nicely.
Check all oil levels, there are marine engines that have a fuel pump that needs lubrication, don't forget this one.
Check the impeller and replace if in doubt. If a paddle is missing during the inspection, it will often be in the hose between the pump and heat exchanger. If you don't have a heat exchanger, this piece will also be in the hose, often a piece of rubber hangs behind a hose grommet or knee that is in the cooling system.
Check the V-belt. V-belts can get hairline cracks over time, if this is the case, the V-belt needs to be replaced.

Tip, keep old ones as a spare.
Check the motor anodes if present. If it has been sacrificed for the hitch, it must be replaced.
Check the strainer. Throw legs usually have an O-ring and it is wise to have 1 spare set on board.
Check the aerator. The aerator ensures that your engine does not lift when the engine is stopped, causing water on the piston, which can cause irreparable damage. Ship engines that have the head above the waterline are usually not equipped with an aerator.

Check the screw seal. If the boat is on the shore, this is an excellent opportunity to replace the propeller shaft grease cord if present. This is also possible in the water, but then you have to leave 1 fat fever to prevent water in the boat.
Check the battery terminals and lubricate them with a little acid-free Vaseline if necessary.
As a tip, I would like to give one week before the engine has to be started to charge the batteries of the engine, this gives a lot less stress if the engine does not start when you are under the crane and want to sail away. With an open battery, also check whether the battery water is 1 cm above the plates.
A battery is full when there is a voltage on the poles of its 12.7 to 12.8 volts at rest. However, if the voltage is 10.5 volts or longer, the starting will not work.
Check all hoses and hose clamps. Hoses must not have aging cracks and hose clamps must not be rusty. Hose clamp preferably made of stainless steel and double if there is room for 2 hose clamps.

Boat enters the water.
Do not open the valve until the boat is in the water so that there is immediate pressure from the outside and the engine does not first draw air when starting, causing the impeller to run dry and break.
If the engine does not start at all, the battery switch may accidentally still be switched off, but an improperly secured battery terminal of the starmotor will also cause the starter motor to fail.

If there is no cooling water coming out of the exhaust when starting because the impeller does not draw in the water, you can start the cooling water in 2 ways.
1. Close the shut-off valve and fill the strainer with water and refit the lid and open the shut-off valve. Start the engine and check for cooling water coming out of the exhaust.

2. In some cases there is air in the impeller pump that will not clear by itself, proceed as follows. Disconnect the hose AFTER the impeller pump and piston on the hose to suck the air and outboard water through the pump, when you feel water coming back on the hose put the hose back and start the engine. Check if water is coming out of the outlet.

The impeller is a piece of nitile rubber that cannot withstand dry running, make sure you always have a spare impeller on board and replace the impeller cover if it is worn too much.

When launching the vessel and starting the engine, it is important that the engine compartment and under the floors are checked to ensure that no oil or water is running. It is wise to always keep your engine and bilge clean, so you can see if there is a leak somewhere.
With marine diesels it is advisable to warm them up and then sail away, start the engine and sail away quietly, but avoid accelerating a lot and sailing away quickly. The oil of a diesel is quite thick and it takes a while before the oil gets everywhere, the oil gets thinner as the engine gets warmer.
In cold weather or if a diesel has been standing still for a long time, old marine diesel sometimes want to run too slowly without you really noticing this, the result is that the late power light comes on and perhaps even the oil pressure alarm. If this happens you can give a little more throttle than this should be over if not immediately stop the engine and see where the problem is.

Check the engine before starting or every 10 hours.
Check engine oil.
Check the coolant level.
Check cooling water strainer.
Check the water separator for water.
Check for leaks

Maintenance every 100 hours or at least once a year.
Change engine oil and replace oil filter.
Check impeller (make sure you have a new one on board)
Reverse gear oil arrows.
Replace coarse filter.
Check batteries, battery cables and battery connections.

Maintenance every 400 hours or at least every 2 years.
Replace fine fuel filter.
Replace reverse oil.
Check V-belt, shoots and tension.
Check the valve clearance
Check flexible engine mounts, cracks.

Maintenance every 1000 hours or at least every 5 years.
Check the impeller pump cover for signs of wear, grooves to deepen reduce cooling.
Check the alignment of the propeller shaft.

Check!

Motor.
O Check engine oil level.
O Check gearbox oil level.
O Drain the water separator.
O Clean the weed filter.
O Replace cooling water pump impeller.
O Check aerator cooling system.
O Check outboard cooling anodes.
O Check coolant indirect cooling.
O Check hoses for leaks.
Tension O V-belts.
Replace OV-belts.
O Measure valve clearance.
O Check propeller shaft seal.
O Check sail-drive cuff.

Technic
O Check batteries and top up with battery water.
O Gas installation leak check.
O Replace hoses if necessary.
O Clear gas bottle locker drain.
O Try the thermal protection of the stove.
O Clean impeller log.
O Start up and check electrical equipment.
O Check navigation lights.
O Clean drinking water tanks.
O Flush drinking water pipes.
O Lubricate the toilet pump.

Underwater ship.

O Remove loose paint and rust.
O Check for osmosis, point corrosion.
O Apply antifouling.
O Check anodes and replace if necessary.
O Clean skin penetrations.
O Grease valves through skin lead-through.
O Check screw play
O Inspect propeller for damage.
O Check rudder play.
O Check the standpipes.
O Clean bow and bow thruster.

Hull and deck.
O Cleaning.
O Remove yellow deposits.
O Gelcoat / paintwork clean if necessary.
O Check and touch up paintwork.
O Waxing
O Check seals for fittings and windows.
O Grease rubber deck hatches.
O Check railing.
O Clean the teak deck carefully.
O Possibly put teak in the oil.

Equipment.
O Check mooring lines.
O Cleaning fenders.
O Clean the anchor box.
O Check anchor and closures.
O Clean and lubricate the windlass.
O Check bilge pump.
O Check life jackets or have them inspected.
O Fire extinguishers check or have them inspected.
O Update maps and almanacs.
O Plotter: order and install electronic chart updates.
O Inflate the dinghy and check for leaks.
O Clean sail blade grease.
O Flashlight with batteries.
O Replenish the first aid kit.
O Add stock of screws, bolts and other useful parts.